ScanACat Parts List

The project offers optional parts to match different needs. The downloadable software contains simple true/false variables, allowing the end user to customize their configuration.

Substituting parts may require software modification.

The Main Processors:

Arudino MKR1010 WiFi (digikey.co.nz, rss and others carry this). Power draw 93mA normal, 30mA low power sleep mode. I chose the version with headers to reduce the soldering needs.
Jedrek 134.2 Khz Long Distance Animal Card Reader FDX HDX ISO 11784/5. Power draw in active mode is around 800mA, and about 10mA when in standby.

I purchased from Ali-Express with pre-made antenna:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005981237634.html?search_direct=true&spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0

Note: I have experimented with other, more affordable modules, but they were not as effective. Antenna design is complex, and many individuals end up damaging their boards when attempting to design one. That's why I chose an option that includes the antenna. Occasionally, the board may arrive with a jumper cable connecting pin 5 (power enable) and pin 1 (3.7-4.5 V) in active mode. If this is the case, remove the jumper cable.

The SD Card breakout board:

Adafruit SD Breakout Board+, available at several locations, as I was getting things from digikey anyway I just puchased it there. https://www.adafruit.com/product/254
Qty 1 10kΩ Resistor (jcar) for SD Card Recognition Pin should you wish to use it, I do not use it.

The Sensor:

IR Break Beam Sensor(s)

I purchased from digikey their part number is 1528-2526-ND, the manufacturer was Adafruit (5mm led size). This included both an emitter and receiver.
Power draw 20mA at 5 volts, has a response time of <2 ms and a sensing distance of up to 50cm.

If you wish to have an open-ended tunnel with the antenna in the middle you will need 2 sets; one for each end of the tunnel. Only one set is required if there is a single entry/exit.

NOTE: These are used to reduce power consumption. It would be possible to change the software to simply leave the system fully up for reading of chips in cases where people have easy access to a power source; but I have not done so at this time.

Voltage Regulator and Surge Protection Circuit:

Jaycar parts or equivalent:

1000uF 16VDC Electrolytic RB Capacitor (jaycar pn RE6220)
10.0 µF 25VDC Electrolytic RB Capacitor (jaycar pn RE6070)
100nF 50VDC Ceramic Capacitor (jaycar pn RC5360)
3.3V Regulator (jaycar pn ZV1650)

The Real Time Clock (optional):

I decided to use the Adafruit PCF8523 as a low-cost add-on. These are also available from several sources (I used Digikey).

The advantage of adding a real-time clock is that it provides the ability to log the date and time a chip was read. Some users may not require a timestamp, so this part is optional.

If using the Adafruit Real-time clock, a CR1220 coin battery is required.

The Power Source:

I used a Xiaomi Redmi 20000 mAh Power Bank which has single port output of 2.4A. I purchased at PBTech, though others carry this. I also added a 3.7 V 2600mAh Li-po battery in a battery holder and, connected to the JST connector of the Arduino MKR 1010. The combination is required. A clean 5V power supply with sufficient output to support the power draw (3A will be more than sufficient). Or where you have good solar input for your distribution, there are powerbanks with solar panels to help keep them charged.

Button:

Most momentary buttons will work without changes to the software. I chose the Black Momentary IP65 Pushbutton Switch CAT.NO: SP0756 from Jaycar.

The button reduces power consumption by only turning on wi-fi if the button has been pressed.

RGB LED (status LED):

I chose to use a single LED for status purposes, it was a Clear RGB Common Cathode LED. I used a Kingbright WP154A4SUREQBFZGC T-1 3/4 (5mm) Full Color LED Lamp. Many places have these or others that will work just as well with no change to the software.

If using an RGB Led for status you will also need:

a small breadboard
QTY 3 220 Ω resistors

Other Parts:

Some other items are required for all configurations, and some will be based on your desired usage and configuration. As such this list will require some thought about how you intend to utilize and house the ScanACat device.

USB Cables:

To connect the MKR WiFi 1010 to your computer, you will need a micro-B USB cable for the Arduino end and a compatible cable end for your PC/Mac.

If you are using a battery bank to power your system you will need an appropriate USB cable to connect the battery bank to the Arduino enclosure.

Enclosures (level of dust/water proofness depends on your needs) I got aluminium boxes from HiQ components one for the arudino and another for the RFID module, connectors (again depends on your desired configuration needs), hookup wire, 22 guage stranded wire, shielded cable, and of course the container for the cat to walk through (I used a plastic storage box from Mitre10. See pictures for the processor boxes on the assembly page: the box for the rfid is aluminium die-cast and is a bit shorter than the one for the arduino module. These were chosen to minimise the noise impact. The box with the arduino is taller than that for the RFID reader to offer more noise reduction, with the top of it modified with a perspex window so that

For the Arduino, I used the large mkr protoshield (breadboard) and screwless terminal blocks.

I also used some terminal blocks and right angle pin headers to allow for easier testing/trying of other things.

Tools:

Soldering Iron, solder and desolder braid.

If you aren't experienced at soldering electronics there are many online tutorials available:

Optional but very nice to have: Third Hand PCB Holder with clips and magnifying glass or similar.

Wirestrippers and cutters.

Heat shrink tube (I prefer glue lined), it can be hard to find the smaller diameter sizes so look around.

A tool to shrink the heat shrink: a hot air gun is a popular choice, with care a butane micro torch can be used, also with care the soldering iron can be used.

Electrical tape.

Double-sided tape.

Superglue.

Antistatic wristband and pad, good practice but environmental conditions determine need. If you live someplace where you find yourself getting static shocks and want to make sure you aren't going to fry a board then this is a good thing to have and use.

Drill and appropriate-sized bits and hole saws.

Possibly a jig saw or similar, depending on housing plans.